Indo Products Help Center

Yes, for orders over $50 we ship free within Canada.

Yes, we use plain boxes for discreet shipping.

Yes, please refer to each individual item for the warranty term.

With Indo you are not dealing with an overseas company.  You are dealing with a Canadian company with a Canadian presence therefore when something goes wrong we are able to better resolve the issue.

Currently online payments are being handled through Shopify.  

VISA, MasterCard, American Express,Apple Pay, Google Pay, and PayPal are all accepted forms of payment.

INTERAC eTransfers are also accepted.  During order payment select INTERAC eTransfer.  Then transfer the funds for the order to sales@growindo.com 

In our store we can accept VISA, Mastercard, American Express, INTERAC eTransfer, Debit Cards, and cash.

Hydroponics, by definition, is the process of growing plants in sand, gravel, or liquid, with added nutrients but without soil.

Hydroponics does not use soil, instead the root system is supported using an inert medium such as perlite, rockwool, clay pellets, peat moss, or vermiculite. The basic premise behind hydroponics is to allow the plants roots to come in direct contact with the nutrient solution, while also having access to oxygen, which is essential for proper growth.

Aeroponics is the process of growing plants in an air or mist environment without the use of soil or an aggregate medium.

Aeroponics is an optimized form of hydroponics where the roots are suspended in air, in a dark chamber.  Plant roots are fed with a mist containing nutrients.  The mist has droplet sizes ranging from 30 - 100 microns.

Benefits

Reduces water required to grow plants by 95%

Reduces nutrients required to grow plants by 75%

Reduces time required to grow plants by 33%

Plants use a process call photosynthesis (the most important chemical process on Earth) as a source of energy to make food molecules from carbon dioxide and water.  

The only type of light which enables photosynthesis is defined as Photosynthetically Active Radiation (PAR): the narrow band of light between 400nm – 700nm.

Light outside of this range is not photosynthetically active and will not generate greater biomass for those seeking improved yield.

For further information refer to our article and link to a video on PAR.

https://growindo.com/blogs/plant-nutrition-articles/what-are-par-values

An electronic light source converts electrons into photons. Lights for human vision measure output with lumens (measured in lux or footcandles). Lights for photobiological reactions measure output with photosynthetic photon flux (PPF) or the rate at which the light source emits in the photosynthetic region.

Another way of stating it is: PPF tells us how much PAR a light source emits.

Where PPF measures total PAR output of a lighting system, Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density (PPFD) measures how much of that light is delivered to a given area.

For further information refer to our article and link to a video on PAR.

https://growindo.com/blogs/plant-nutrition-articles/what-are-par-values

Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density (PPFD) is the measurement of PAR delivered to a specific area in a specific period of time. It is expressed as micromole-per-meter squared-per second (μmol/m2/s).

This measurement informs us of the amount of light being delivered to a crop to enable photosynthesis.

For further information refer to our article and link to a video on PAR.

https://growindo.com/blogs/plant-nutrition-articles/what-are-par-values

COB (Chip On Board), is a relatively newer LED technology.  

COB LEDs are basically multiple LED chips (typically nine or more) bonded directly to a substrate by the manufacturer to form a single module. Since the individual LEDs used in a COB are chips and not traditionally packaged, the chips can be mounted such that they take up less space and the highest potential of the LED chips can be obtained. When the COB LED package is energized, it appears more like a lighting panel than multiple individual lights as would be the case when using several SMD LEDs mounted closely together.

Advantages of COB LED Technology

• The light emitting area of a COB LED contains many times more light sources in the same area than standard LEDs could occupy resulting in significantly increased PPFD values.
  
• COB LEDs use a single circuit with just two contacts to energize the multiple diode chips it houses. This results in fewer components required per LED chip for proper operation. Furthermore, the reduced components, along with the elimination of the traditional LED chip structure packaging, can reduce the heat generated from each LED chip. 
• The ceramic/aluminum substrate of COB LEDs also acts as a higher efficiency heat transfer medium when coupled to an external heatsink, further lowering the overall operating temperature of the assembly. 
• Another aspect of COB LEDs that reduces failure rates is the fact that spot soldering of the individual LED chips is not necessary as each chip is directly mounted onto the substrate. The smaller amount of welding points results in lowering the rate of failure.
  

With regards to grow lights COB LEDs are typically biased towards the blue and red wavelengths but typically offer a much more full spectrum than lighting panels with multiple individual lights.  Figure 1, below, shows the "McCree curve".  This data from a 1972 paper by Dr. McCree and Dr. Inada who performed several studies in the to determine the influence of light spectra on photosynthesis.  Below in Figure 2 you will see the typical emission spectrum from the Sun, an HPS bulb, and the COB design that Indo Products uses.  Figure 3 shows the emission from other LED panels, which are missing much of the PAR potential of a light.  You will notice in Figure 3 that the emission is missing much of the light that is part of photosynthesis and therefore will likely not be as effective with plant growth if that is the only source of light a plant receives.

Figure 1. PAR - McCree curve

Figure 2. Indo CREE COB LED Spectrum

 Figure 3. Typical LED Panel

If your roots of the seedlings are protruding outside the growing medium (cube or puck) then they are ready to be be planted into pots or other growing medium.

Typically we would keep the light at a distance of 24” (60 cm) above the newly planted seedlings.  Within a few days to a week you can start lowering the lights to a distance of 18” (45 cm).  If the plants are growing and the leaves don't appear to be wilted (they are pointing up) they have adapted and will do best with a closer and stronger light. 

Happy Growing! 

Yes, our lights will work with 110/120 volts and 220/240 volts; all you need is the right power cord to plug into the outlet. Our lights come with a heavy-duty 14 gauge 8-foot North American 120V cord, but we do have other styles for different voltages.

LEDs do not require a ballast. You can plug Indo LED grow lights directly into your wall outlet!

High intensity lights require a ballast in order to generate the extremely high voltage required to power the bulb.  LED lights use DC (direct current) which is provided by an online power converter in our LED fixtures. 

Note that Indo LED lights also automatically work with any voltage all you will need is the correct power cord for your wall receptacle type.

No they are not.

Tents can be made from a variety of materials.  With the exception of the dryer tent, all of Indo Products tents are made from a high-quality 1680D ballistic-nylon fabric.

For more information, read this article explaining the differences in tents.

https://growindo.com/blogs/how-to-articles/are-all-grow-tents-made-the-same

In between grows, it’s incredibly important to clean and maintain your grow tent thoroughly before starting a new crop. 

1. Remove the bottom tray and vacuum all debris from the tent.  
   
2. Wipe all surfaces down with bleach or hydrogen peroxide to eradicate any lingering pathogens or diseases.  Avoid using other chemicals as they could damage the tent interior, reducing reflectivity.
   
3. Thoroughly scrub all pots and components that you plan on using in subsequent grows.

Notes:

• Hydrogen peroxide is good for sanitization and sterilization, and it is safe around plants as it degrades to just water and a free oxygen molecule.
  
• Bleach is best for killing everything, virii included, but Hydrogen Peroxide is better for use while the garden is up and running.
  
• When you are working with any chemical cleaners it is always recommended to wear gloves and goggles to protect yourself from the irritating chemicals.
  

Keep zippers clean by brushing or wiping them regularly to remove dirt and grit that can become lodged in and around the teeth. If a tight zipper sticks, apply a thin coating of paraffin, talc or spray lubricant to the teeth.

The bars at the top of the tent are rated to handle up to 150 lbs (68 kg) in total with even distribution of the weight.

We get the question on how to mix plant nutrients a lot.  

It does not matter which order you add the concentrated nutrients to water, just as long as you add them into your water bucket and don’t combine in the concentrated form. You may have heard before that you need to add the nutrients in a certain order so that they mix together properly, but that's not an issue with the Indo Easy Grow System. The nutrients are made from high quality, chelated ingredients, so they will mix up regardless of the order you add them.

If you have any further questions please don't hesitate to reach out using our contact form.

If the ambient temperature is less than 24C (75F) we recommend using a heating mat.  Heat mats are used to increase the temperature and humidity inside of the dome.  Heat mats can also create a lot of problems – they can easily get too warm for clones and precautions should be taken. Placing a towel between the heating mat and the bottom of the tray will help dissipate the heat inside of the tray. Another good method is hooking the heat mats to a timer. Have them turn on and off every 5-15 minutes. Use a temperature and humidity monitor with a probe inside of the dome to dial in the proper levels of 24-27C (75-80F) and 70-80% RH. You will want to visually see some condensation on the sides of the dome. Leave the new clones alone and re-check the temperature and humidity levels every 2-12 hours for any potential issues that may arise.